Sunday, February 5, 2012

From Pondering Pants, to Tackling Trousers

It's been almost a year since I decided I wanted to try a pair of pants.  I'm not going to lie to any pants-sewing virgins out there: fitting is frustrating.  After - no lie - 3 weeks of fiddling with muslins, I believe I have a respectable fit.  I present you with the final muslin (made from a random almost-one-yard scrap of black stretchy-wool):



The pattern is Burda 4-2011-116A, size 40:


The original straight size 40 had a lot of pulling at the crotch which I couldn't solve even after playing around with the crotch and inseam.  Finally, I tried the pin-fitting method in Pants for Real People; when the crotch was loose and un-pinned, the pulling disappeared.  The pants did not feel tight in the low hip area at all, but alas they were, for as you can see from the photos above, the pulling disappeared after adding about 1/4 inch from the low to high hip.

So next up: I might try to bang out a few pair, assembly line-style.  Palmer/Pletsch states that 2 pair of pants can be made in 4 hours.  Them's fighin words, don't you think?

35 comments:

Karin said...

Hmmm, two pairs in four hours?! I wonder if they are including, cutting out, interfacing, etc.
Nice trousers by the way!

Faye Lewis said...

I think you achieved an amazing fit. But how did you get a muslin from just almost 1 yard of fabric?

poppykettle said...

I think your efforts have been worthwhile - the fit looks pretty spot on to me! I like this style of pants too - very flattering.

And Palmer/Pletsch? They must be on drugs.

Bri said...

Great pants pattern and bravo to you for soldering on through this and getting such a great fit! For sure make a couple pairs after the trouble you went to for such a great fit, you'll get lots of use out of them!

Anonymous said...

I sense some ambivalence in your post. I, too, have solved fitting problems that seemed to compound each other, only to end with a garment that fit, but did not flatter.

Chris said...

wow! those 3 weeks of struggling with muslins paid off in a great fit for you...

I'm about to embark on my first pair of jeans - wish me luck. :-)

a little sewing said...

LOL, yes 2 pairs of pants in 4 hours - them's fightin' words all right.

Your pants look really good! I know the frustration. Pants are just mysterious garments. You did a great job.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Getting a well fitted pair of pants is an ongoing process and I think you're off to a great start. Even now, I still make small corrections to my pants pattern to adjust to my changing figure!

So definitely make the next 2 pair of pants and wear them about to check their wearability factor. You did a great job - can't wait to see the next two pair!

Sherry said...

I think you've done great! They can be a real test of patience, which you must have after 3 weeks! Looking forward to your next pair/s.

kbenco said...

They look good. Trouser fitting is WORK.
2 pairs of trousers in 4 hours? Sounds to me like elastic waist, overlocked seams and no pockets, how delightful;)

Claire (aka Seemane) said...

Wow -they look pretty good to me!

And I still haven't returned to the muslin of the BurdaStyle trousers (my first ever) I started this time last year... my bad! Maybe when it's not so cold I'll try again... the thought of slipping in/out of trousers to do fitting in the cold weather we're having here in London/UK right now is not so appealing LOL!

Lori said...

Looks like you have a great fitting muslin. Can't wait to see your finished trousers.

gwensews said...

Nice fit on those pants, which is not easily done. Now you have a TNT and can copy design details to your perfected pattern. Good job!m

Evie said...

I'm such a huge fan of the Palmer Pletsch method. I'd fought with trousers for ages and finally made a pair I love using their method. I've got some lovely black poly/wool ready to go for the next pair. I hope they look as good as yours. Gorgeous.

Irene said...

The pants look wonderful! Perseverance certainly pays off.

Second Hand Rose said...

Wow these look great and look like they are made so well! Congrats! XxxX http://thesecondhandrose.blogspot.com/

sew.dat.mamma said...

The pants fit you like a charm!

Lisa said...

The fit on these look great. I am struggling fitting pants at the moment ...I hear you .

Wanda said...

I like your pants. Have you tried drafting your own pants pattern? Much easier to solve the fitting issues when you start from the ground up. I have tried two different methods and one worked just about as well as the other. You generally still have to tweak things a bit because every fabric will hang a bit differently. But it is a good option for people like me with fitting issues - a bit of a tummy and no behind. Wanda in Edmonton

Carolyn said...

It's hard to see the details in this black fabric, but the time and care you are putting into getting a great fit will pay off with a beautifully fitting pair of trousers. Good luck!

Sew Brunswick said...

Excellent pants! I have made wide leg trousers for years but am about to embark on the fitted clovers! How did you find the pants for real people book? I bought it in preparation.

Sheila said...

The pants look good and not sure about 2 pairs of pants in 4 hours. I have made 6 pairs of pants using the same S4273 pattern for each, together with rtw capris that I took apart to ensure proper crotch fit.... um one pair probably took 4 hours. I have also come to realize that despite using my rtw for proper fit, I still have to tweak the pants and thinking fabric is the culprit. With all that said making pants is not as exasperating as when I first started.

Cennetta said...

Your pants look good. 2 pair in four hours? Maybe..., After cutting and without pockets, I'm able to crank out two pair in that time frame. You can do it. Wink. wink. PS- I very like the Burda pattern you used for this pair.
C

Kuby said...

Your pants look great. Pant fitting is not for the faint of heart. If you are diligent though, it can be done. I think you've arrived at one perfectly good TNT pattern

The Slapdash Sewist said...

What a great fit! I am impressed (and jealous).

Sophia said...

Nice! I'm still working my way to pants (the fabric, lining, and pattern are all sitting there... waiting....)

I love the idea of churning out a couple pairs, assembly line style!

Can't wait to see your finished garments!

Tors said...

I think the fit looks great, well done for sticking with it, I'm not sure my patience would've last that long! Good luck with the assembly line!

LinB said...

Yay! Pants that fit! And that you are not ashamed to wear in a photograph! Sure, you can knock out 2 pairs of unlined pants in 4 hours, including cutting out. This presumes that you will use the same color thread for both pairs, so that you can railroad pieces through without stopping between pieces. And that your iron stays hot for quick pressing while sewing. You may not be able to achieve the nicest seam finishes, but pinking or serging or just leaving them to ravel will work. Hand hemming will probably slow you down a wee bit.

MushyWear said...

The fit on these look marvelous. It is so satisfying to have a pattern that is all ready to go, even if it took forever to get right. You'll use it again and again, I'm certain. Nice job!

Gail said...

Love your ideas for a spring wardrobe. The pants are great and thanks too for solving my 'which Burda flared leg pants pattern?' dilemma.

Chantilly Dreams said...

Your pants are terrific and I realize how difficult fitting is! Thanks for your honesty ;) You have inspired me!

Wag Doll said...

Wow, that's your muslin? I'd be wearing those to work!
The fit looks perfect, well done for sticking with it.
I'm an incredibly slow sewer so I'd be happy to make one pair in 4 hours LOL! x

ConstantlyAlice said...

If you manage two pairs of pants in 4 hours, you are officially my hero.
xo
ConstantlyAlice

My Brave True Hero said...

You did a great job, you made an excellent trouser that fits you. Its better to use your talent than buying a new pants in this way you can save money and at the same time you can get what you want because you are the one deciding on making it.

Lisette M said...

Fantastic fit!