Falling for Burda

Does this statement summarize all that I've heard about Burda?: The patterns are well-drafted, stylish, and have a sophisticated European cut, but are frustrating to trace, with all but worthless instructions?  This is my general impression of Burda - with the latter being why I've avoided sewing the patterns for this long - but, I will tell you, I'm starting to really get into Burda. 

I ordered the March 2011 issue because many of you recommended Burda pants for their great fit; while I ordered the issue solely for pants pattern 03-2011-116, I'd like to sew no less than 10 patterns in that issue. 

This was the "wedding" issue, but that section's patterns could be made in casual fabrics for workaday wear.  These 2 jacket patterns render me weak in the knees:

Burda 03-2011-120

Burda 03-2011-115

Will skirt patterns fit as well as Burda's pants?  I'd like to try out this simple skirt with a waist band and pleats:

03-2011-122

Despite all the lovely Lady Greys out there, I never thought I'd sew an outerwear coat.  Never.  But my winter overcoat was on its last legs this past winter, and I couldn't find a coat that I liked (I even brought home a JCrew coat but ultimately returned it because I just didn't do it for me).  Burda 03-2011-123, though, is exactly what I want:

Burda 03-2011-123

I've become so obsessed that I picked up a Spanish version of Burda April 2011 (Burda is sold at sidewalk newstands in Spain, and was only about $5).  Hey, if the instructions are that pointless, does the language even matter?  Really, I could use Google translator if I need them.

I want this entire outfit from the April issue:

Pants 04-2011-120 & Jacket 04-2011-102

So this week I took 2 aspirin and traced the above 2 pants patterns.  It really wasn't that bad.  I'm actually glad I picked up Burda after the patterns were compressed; it would have been hard to go from the easier format to this rather confusing and chaotic one.  It required a bit of "Where's Waldo?" concentration to identify the various pattern pieces, but the tracing only took about half an hour and I got the hang of finding the pieces rather quickly.

I picked up this nifty Olfa Rotary Cutter Arm Guide which I can use to add the seam allowances while I cut. 

This product was recommended in the comments - thanks so much for that - and will make adding the seam allowances fast and easy.  I snagged mine on Ebay; it appears that they are available for sale here (scroll to the bottom).

I'm hoping my praise of Burda isn't misplaced; perhaps I should reserve judgment until I've used the instructions and sewn the patterns?  I'm going to start a pants muslin after I finish a few projects ahead in line, and if they work out, I foresee a many other Burda muslins in the future (hello, winter jacket!). 

Why do you sew (or not sew) with Burda?  Are you a devotee?  Or do you not want the extra bother?  Or are you a beginner like me who was (and still is) rather frightened of the magazine?     

* * *

We arrived home from Spain last week; we had such a great time.  The atmosphere was amazing: the parks in Madrid were full of color, the orange trees were blooming in Cordoba - simply perfuming the air with the fragrance of orange blossoms - and in Seville, the trees lining the streets were already replete with oranges.  Spring was a magical time to go to Spain.

Wow, did I pack poorly.  The weather was forecasted to be sunny and in the low 80's: we thought that meant the temperature would touch the high for an hour or so, like it does here in the US's spring, but have a chill much of the day.  So wrong!  It was gloriously sunny and hot (and even got close to 90 in Seville) all day, every day, for the entire trip, without a drop of rain or a pouf of clouds. 

I brought a long a few of my self-stitched items.  I won't bore you with a ton of pictures (my husband took over 400), but here's B5486 in the Parque de María Luisa in Seville on Palm Sunday:

Remember the vintage pattern cotton ikat shift that is still awaiting trim detail?  It was on top of my sewing pile, and I randomly threw it into my suitcase at the last minute because it was so lightweight.  I'm so glad that I did, because it's probably the item I wore most on the trip.  Here it is at the Mezquita in Cordoba:

The columns were begun in 786AD!

And me looking rather elated (and hot) after walking to the bottom of Ronda's gorge, in the White Hill Towns, to get a great view of its famous bridge:

I will admit, even with so much fun sewing to be done, it was difficult to return to real life.

Vogue 1229: Vena Cava Ikat Print Dress

In furtherance of my plan to sew summer clothes early, I made this Vena Cava asymmetrical ruffle dress from the Vogue spring pattern release:

Vogue 1229

I feel almost goofy wearing this dress right now, it's so lightweight and summery.  The fabric is a lightweight cotton ikat print from JoAnn Fabrics.  I know.  This is one of the few nice, polyester-free fabrics I've found at JoAnn's.  This is true stashbustin': I purchased this fabric right when I started garment sewing, about 2 years ago.

Warning: the bodice is ridonculously short.  I made a quick muslin of the top, and ultimately added 1 1/4" because, as drafted, it only made it half-way down my bust.  I also added 3" to the length so that I wasn't married to the super-short length at the end.

Other than those changes, the dress was easy to make, even the ruffles (they are self-lined, instead of finished with a narrow hem). 

The entire inside, except the waistband, is finished with french seams - including the bust dart.  Here's the pattern piece, and the finished dart.

I don't think this is vastly different from a regular dart - I've never been that offended by them - but it was different and fun to sew. 

I probably won't make this again.  It's a really cute dress, but the gathering is a little poufy.  It's more pronounced than on the pattern envelope, and this is a really lightweight material.  My husband likes the dress, but noted that it could double as a maternity garment if we were ever to have children.  Ouch.  He backpaddled by pointing out that it really only looks blousy from the side. 

Regardless, I think it will be a great alternative to shorts on those 90 degree days that just seem so far away right now...

* * *

We're headed to Spain tomorrow for 10 days of sightseeing and jamon-eating (and perhaps some fabric shopping: a reader suggested Ribes & Casals in Madrid.  Thanks!)  See you back here in a few weeks!

New S2178 (or how the sewing powers are smiling on me)

Recently I've been obsessing over this Cynthia Rowley Resort 2010 dress:

Cynthia Rowley, Resort 2010, at style.com

... thinking it'd be the perfect match for a primary-colored Japanese cotton print in my stash.  I'd considered using the fabric for a simple shift, trapeze dress, or tunic, but I'm trying to think like a designer: rather than go for the obvious, I believe a designer would pair a graphic print with a softer shape.

Yesterday morning I sat eating my cereal with a pattern alteration book in front of me, pondering how to alter a pattern to create this dress.  Perhaps I could widen the shoulder area and waist of New Look 6912 to add gathering?  My research had been unsuccessful in instructing me how to go about doing that, though...

Later in the day, while trolling the Simplicity website, I spotted this:

Simplicity has released its new summer patterns, and Simplicity 2178 is my recent resort 2010 obsession (with a modified shoulder strap and the addition of a bow).   I truly cannot believe my luck!

(Below is the precise RTW version of Simplicity 2178; I don't like it as much as the coral version, do you?  Perhaps it is the ill-fit on the model:)

Cynthia Rowley, Resort 2010, at style.com

To really cinch the eeriness, I called my local JoAnn's to ask whether the new Simplicity patterns were there - usually a pointless inquiry as it can take weeks for new patterns to arrive after they're released online - and was informed that they had just been dropped off.  And there's a Simplicity 99 cent sale going on right now.  I'm not sure what good deeds I've done lately to receive this kind treatment from the karma police, but I'll take it!