Saturday, June 25, 2011

Burda 03-2011-122: tropical wool pencil skirt with pleats

Sorry for the recent radio silence: last month my husband found a job in the same town I work in and we are in the throes of buying our first home.  What an undertaking.  I found the offer contract confusing, the negotiation process stressful, and the post-inspection bartering antagonistic.  And I'm an attorney. 

Really, I'm thrilled, as the quality of my regular and sewing life will improve ten fold with this move: my commute will drop from over an hour each way to ten minutes (more sewing time!), I will finally have a dishwasher (more sewing time!), a washer/dryer (easy preshinking!), and a dedicated sewing room (self-explanatory).  The appraisal was yesterday, and now we are waiting to set a closing date with the mortgage lender.  So if my posting is a little spotty over the rest of the summer, my apologies ahead of time.

While I've been away for a few weeks, I have the most exciting project to show you (are you getting my e-sarcasm?): a beige pencil skirt.  Wah wah.  It is a terribly boring garment, but as well all know, these utilitarian pieces are wear twice-a-week, wardrobe staples.

The pattern is from the Burda March 2011 issue.  The pleats in place of darts add a bit of interest beyond the usual pencil skirt.

I wore the skirt to work yesterday with a JCrew knit cardigan and S2599,
one of my favorite homespun pieces.  The glasses are the Japhy by Warby Parker.

Burda 3-2011-122


Pleats aren't always a hippy girl's best friend: I sewed this in a size 40, with a 3/4" seam allowance, because the pleats gaped slightly on my size 38 muslin.

The fabric is a lightweight tropical wool with a bit of stretch purchased at Paron's Annex on my recent trip to the Garment District.  I picked this fabric for trouses, but was able to make this skirt with the fabric as Paron's generously gave me at least an extra yard  - perhaps more - gratis becaues it was the end of the bolt. 




I'm proud of the finishing I did on this garment: following instructions in Marcy Titlton's Easy Guide to Sewing Skirts, I added a French vent in place of the slit (which I've read don't hold up well). 


After basting the lining to the skirt wrong sides together, but before attaching the waistband, I flipped the skirt inside out and used the zipper foot to attach the lining to the seam allowance around the invisible zipper. 


I stitched-in-the-ditch to attach the waistband, and for the first time ever uniformly caught the waistband on the inside.


I'm officially a Burda devotee: this skirt solved a long-standing issue I've had with the Big 4 patterns: skirt dumpy butt (such an elegant description, no?).   Have you experienced this?  I feel that the backs of the Big 4 skirt patterns are shaped too wide, and don't curve in to hug a woman's shape.  But this Burda skirt cuts in under the bum and mimics RTW skirts in a way that the Big 4 don't.  Burda, j'taime.  Thank you to you readers who suggested that I move on to Burda.  I'm so glad that I did.

26 comments:

Anna said...

Great skirt, and I really like the outfit you've put together as a whole!

Congrats on the house! My husband and I tried to buy a house a few years ago. It didn't work out (holy COW an I glad it didn't, for many reasons), but I feel your pain on the negotiation and contract. Yikes!

Anonymous said...

First congratulations on the house and the shortened commute!

Second, great skirt! Even though it's a basic, it's one of those things that you will wear over and over again!

Carolyn
Diary of a Sewing Fanatic

montanachic said...

That is a great skirt that will get a lot of use. I love the blouse with it.

Crystal said...

I love this skirt on you - I now will be looking for this Burda because I have been looking for a good pencil skirt that works for those of us that area a little more hippy (though you do not look hippy at all). Great job!

Sheila said...

Love your skirt... The whole outfit is sharp. Congrats on your new home and shortened commute.

Sew Green With Envy said...

Lovely skirt. You did a fabulous job! I too prefer Burda patterns for their curves. And I find they fit better if you have smaller shoulders.

Eugenia said...

I don't think your skirt is at all boring - it is sophisticated and stylish. As you say, it is a wardrobe staple and this lovely neutral shade will go with so many other garments and always be a pleasure to wear. Congratulations on your impending home move!

Karin said...

Buying your first house is really exciting. Just don't get sucked into lots of boring home dec sewing!

Your skirt may be simple and utilitarian, but the fit is very, very good. We all need basics and it is great to have basics that fit beautifully and are well made. I just have to say, I love your top.

Sherry said...

Very nice, and the inside is nice too! It is a lovely fit on you - definitely one to make up in every colour!

Peter said...

Lovely skirt and congratulations on the house!

JoanneM said...

I do love Burda skirts and their jackets are excellent. BUT the seizure- inducing pattern tracing is a health nightmare.

Great skirt, the lining is perfect.

Lc said...

I just started following a few weeks back and man youre good. I hope I get good enough to show my clothe inside out.

Congrats on the house!
HauteThrift
http://hautethrift.blogspot.com

Linda said...

Great looking skirt. That color works so well with many colors of tops/sweaters.

Debi said...

FABULOUS skirt! Such a classy shape and fit and I imagine this will be a wardrobe staple! Well done!!

Sewingelle said...

Excellent, another Burda devotee!
And that's a great skirt.

Gail said...

Classy skirt - I love Burda too, especially the precision of the patternmaking.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

Congratulations on the move and the house! I had the easiest home-buying process ever and shudder to think what it would be like to actually have to go through the whole rigamarole (I just bought the condo across the hall from my best friend, who had done months of legwork; it was new construction and they were selling the units outright for a fixed price).

The skirt really works for you, especially the length. I am too stumpy for that length but on you it is both professional and alluring.

MushyWear said...

Congrats on the good news! Your skirt looks fantastic.

Clio said...

Nice! What some might call boring, I would say is a "TNT" pattern for you. The skirt looks great and you could do dozens of variations.

Good luck with the home buying! I hope it all goes according to plan with no hiccoughs or surprises.

Nancy said...

Might I say that that outfit is about the cutest thing I've ever seen?

Lindsay T said...

Very nice!

Trisha said...

Great skirt-- I bet you'll wear it a lot! And congratulations on the new home.

Cennetta said...

Congratulations on the purchase of your new home. The skirt looks awesome. The shaping is great, and as you said unlike the big 4. I am seeing the benefits of sewing more Burda. I just have to get pass the tracing off the pattern pieces. Lol

amber said...

Lovely basic to add to the wardrobe. Even though Burda takes a little extra work, I also find that the fit is worth it. Both skirt patterns I've used from them have been wonderful.

craftnook said...

I just finished my first skirt (ever) and I have no butt and your comment about dumpy butt.. wow, dead on. The skirt is, for reasons I don't get, too big all over but really the butt is the worst part. In a few more projects, I may try a Burda skirt. They look amazing on paper and your words are encouraging. That said, I'm a bit of a newbie so I'm going to do a few more things first.

Nice job! That is a skirt that will get a ton of use and it looks great.

Alexandra

Luz Weber said...

I've been always see your posts, I'm starting to sew clothes.
Beautiful site.
Congratulations.
luzweber.blogspot.com