Simplicity 2648: Cythina Steffe (material) dress

This is Simplicity 2648, a pattern that I've been wanting to make since last year. 

Simplicity 2648

The fabric is a thick textured cotton/poly from the designer Cynthia Steffe, purchased last spring at Paron Fabrics in New York (stashbustin'!).

This pattern has cup size variations, and calls for 1 inch seam allowances on the sides so that the dress can be fit as you go.  I originally cut a size 12 in the B cup version, my normal size, but even with the extra 3/8" allowance, I had to grade out to a 14 at the waist and hips.  Too much sewing and not enough working out over the past months! 

I've been taking a new approach to muslining: I make a "muslin" out of the garment's lining fabric, making sure I have extra in case I need to cut new pattern pieces.  I baste together the seams I know I'll have to rip out to construct the garment (like the bodice side seams).  It's been working out so well because - if the "muslin" fits - the lining is done and ready to be essentially dropped into the fashion fabric.  I never liked constructing a piece and then having to construct it all over again in the boring lining fabric.

I had another fitting victory with this dress: there was major gappage at the top of the princess seam near the underarm.  Increasing the seam allowance at the problem area didn't work because the 2 seams would no longer meet evenly at the fabric edge.  I tried the alteration in Fit For Real People - which requires removing some of the seam allowance but also popping out the top of the piece so that the 2 seams align at the fabric edge - and it worked perfectly. 

The altered pattern is on top of the original so that you can see where the top of the pattern is dropped and shifted to the left, and more armscye curve is added.  (Ignore the line - I use scraps of old patterns to as tracing paper).

= no gapage!

If you are a new sewer, I highly recommend getting this book.  I did not buy the book for a long time, thinking that a book could never teach me how to alter patterns, and that I wouldn't be able to learn on my own, but I in fact have been able to achieve pattern alerations with this book.  I'm rather amazed, frankly.

This pattern has been made by so many sewers for a reason: classic style, nice shape (neckline perfect - not too high, not too low), great for work or dress.  I think this will become a TNT pattern for me.  It won't supplant McCall 5753, The Perfect Shift Dress (now OOP), but perhaps this will be my Perfect Princess Seam Shift Dress.