Knowing When to Seek Professional Help

Well, I've finally hit my sewing wall: despite hours of research (and muslin work) I just cannot figure out what is wrong with this dress's bodice.  I agreed with your essentially unanimous thought that the bodice is too long.  I had Mr. ASW pinch the back and determined that there is about an inch and a half of extra fabric; I folded the pattern one inch at the adjustment line on the bodice, and re-drew the side seams.  (I also graded down one size at the shoulders, as the shoulders were too big, which accounted for the remaining half inch that needed to go).  Here is the result:

Slightly better on the left side, but no real difference on the right.  To make matters worse, the front turned into an 80's style half-shirt, ending just under my bust.  (I'm not entirely surprised by this, as I felt that it hit in the right place at my waist originally.)

I  came to the realization that this is a problem I can't seem to solve on my own.  I endeavored to seek out a tailor in my area who I could cajole into giving me sewing lessons.  I was pleased to discover a sewing studio near my job (what did we do before Google?!) that has open sewing classes on Monday evenings.

After reviewing the dress's bodice, the instructor believed that I am cutting the size appropriate for my bust, but not my my frame. She took my measurements and determined that my high bust (upper chest above my bust) is a scant 32", while my bust is a 34". I've been cutting a size 12 for the 34" bust.

She suggested that I cut a size 8 (on this pattern, a 31.5" bust), but add to the side seam to get my waist size (I had to add about an inch on each side, so I'm probably back to about a size 12 at the waist).  After tissue-fitting the pattern, she recommended a full bust adjustment to accommodate a 34" bust.  The instructor showed me how to do a FBA; here she had to add a side dart in addition to the previously sole large dart that went from the waist to the bust.

I'd need to refer to an instruction book, but I do think that I could replicate a FBA adjustment again.  It was so helpful to see someone execute it.

As to the offending back, the instructor thought that I needed to do a forward should adjustment (apparently I have a bit of a slouch from sitting at a computer all day); she did this by adding about a half inch to the back shoulder seam, and removing that amount from the front shoulder seam.  Super easy!
 
In addition to pinching out a bit of "fabric" on the pattern near the shoulder where it was still gaping (the fold in the picture below), she felt that I needed a rounded back adjustment (the pie-shaped addition).
 
 

 
It was really helpful to actually watch someone cut the pattern to make adjustments.  My next step is to lower the front bust dart slightly as it is not hitting at my "apex" (the fullest part of the bust), and then sew this up to see if this fits.  I'm hoping these alterations do the trick!  They looked right in the tissue fitting, but frankly, I'm slightly wary of the Palmer Pletsch's much-exalted tissue fitting method.  Firstly, it only shows one side, and secondly, fabric must hang so much differently than paper.  But I'm new, and these are just my impressions!  Perhaps I will turn into a convert.  Do you have any thoughts (negative points or love stories) about tissue fitting?
 
When I began sewing, I thought that I could do it on my own.  I do feel that sewing is like cooking: if you follow the instructions in a cookbook, you can make a meal.  Similiarly, if you follow pattern instructions, you can make a garment.  For me, I'm realizing that while I can learn to sew, fitting is something that I just can't seem to grasp by reading it in a book.  That's just me.  I think that attending this studio will help me to perfect the fit of muslins I plan to make of classic patterns that I'd like to sew in multiples: a Chanel-style jacket, wide-leg pants, the perfect shift dress...

Imperfect Fit on the Perfect Dress

I'm making a test run of the potentially perfect dress, McCall's 5753, in a chino fabric, which I cut it out in my usual size 12 (34 bust).  The neckline is a lovely shape - wonderfully dipped, but not too low. The skirt pockets took a few tries, but are a great feature.  I got the zipper in, slipped it on for a full-dress fit test, turned around to peep at the back and saw this:

OMG?!  WTF?!  Why is the bodice ridonculously wrinkly and baggy?  And the right more than the left? 

I couldn't tell from looking in the mirror what the problem is, but I think it is clear in these pictures that the bodice is way too big.  This is so strange, because a size 12 generally fits me well.

At first I believed the front bodice fit, but it too may be big, as the top is gaping:

 

I cropped out the full decolletage shot, as it is rather scandalous!  The Captain is lurking in the background.

Conversely, I may have a bit of a "large buttocks" issue.  Referring to my newly purchased  "Fitting & Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach" reference book, the pulling going on here:

Is awfully similiar to that in the picture.  However, the behind area doesn't feel tight; instead, it almost seems as though the lines are due to too much fabric above the behind to the waist.  Has anyone experienced this before?

I believe my new book, which was recommended last year on Miss Celie's Pants, will be really helpful in solving challenging fitting issues.  But I wonder if this fitting issue is even more basic: should I simply go down a size in the bodice?  Even then, I question whether the bodice will be small enough, because it seems very big.  Perhaps I need to shorten the bodice itself?  I do believe that I have a shorter torso than most. 

I'd love to hear your thoughts on this!

V7975... in cotton sateen? Possible?

I think I am the only sewer who has not made a Chanel-style jacket with Vogue 7975.  It has 26 reviews on Pattern Review!

For some reason I have been obsessing about making it in a thick, navy cotton sateen for summer (of which I have 4.5 yards).  I would wear it with my camel-colored RTW wide leg pants, a yellow skirt and khaki skirt (that are in my "to be sewn" queue - just twinkles in my eye at this point).  I might even make a matching pencil skirt with the fabric for a summer suit... so many options!  So wearable!

But cotton is soooo less forgiving than wool.  Would I drive myself insane trying to do a princess seam with a thick cotton?  I just can't get this vision out of my head!  I'm all about making this jacket in wool for fall/winter, but right now I'm dreaming of a cotton version...

Desperately Seeking: The Perfect Dress

I love dresses, especially for work.  One of the reasons I began sewing was because I couldn't find or couldn't afford classic day dresses.  So since I  began sewing, I have been seeking the perfect dress. 

In fact, my first project was a shift dress: Butterick 5316.

 I have made 2 versions of this pattern, including this jungle-ish print one.

I definitely like it, but the pleats are a little tricky to nail, and the neckline is way too high.  Not ideal for these reasons.

McCall's 5845 was another early dress that I tried.  It was great for a fun sheath dress because of the low back, but it was not the classic sheath dress that I'm seeking. 

These two dresses caused me to realize that I'm seeking certain specifics in the perfect dress: a lower neckline (not high or boatneck), simple darts (no pleats), and a separate bodice and skirt.  In sum, a classic, simple sheath.  So I was really excited when I saw McCall's 5972 because it met the requirements.

However, I should have read the instructions closer before I cut it out: the dress has a side zipper, but instead of requiring the lining to be finished by hand (which would have taken it out of the running for the perfect dress anyways), the armscye are finished with purchased bias binding.  Ugh?!  What RTW dress is finished with bias binding?!  Yes, I could make my own, but this is surely not the perfect dress.  I will finish this UFO at some point, maybe, but for right now, I'm too angry to look at it.

I never noticed McCall's 5753 as a candidate for the perfect dress because of the poufy sleeved, bedazzled brown v-neck cover dress.

But look at the sleeveless dress: a simple sheath, plain darts, a back zipper, no bias binding required. 

Stay tuned: my search may be over!

P.S. At the next Simplicity pattern sale, I'm going to grab Simplicity 2648.  For some unexplainable reason I prefer darts, but after spending 4 hours yesterday marking and sewing all the darts in the lining and fashion fabric of M5753, I'm going to try princess seams.  I really like sewing princess seams, and they are much less time consuming!  I'm not getting too excited, though, as it'd be greedy to wish for two perfect dresses.

Half-way through my one-year challenge of not buying clothes

As you may have noticed in my "About", as of September 1, 2009, I challenged myself to not buy new clothes for one year, but to sew my own. Despite that I had no sewing skills and only started sewing in June 2009…

I challenged myself because I was so excited to begin sewing that I wanted to learn as quickly as possible. My goal was to focus on gaining sewing skills since I wouldn't be able to buy my own.  And though I knew it would be maddening, I thought it would be fun to try, an exercise in self-restraint (which I have little of, especially when it comes to sweets).  While I didn't have a shopping addiction by any means, I often had the urge to shop and purchased random pieces either because they were on sale, or because I liked them despite that they weren't a good fit for my wardrobe or style.  I wanted to curb that desire.

I also wanted to see if one can save money by sewing... I think cost per piece, for the most part, yes.  But it really depends.  This topic is a whole post in itself!  We'll see at the end of the year...

I haven't written about this challenge much because I've been so preoccupied with dreaming up and sewing new projects.  And... frankly, I haven't felt significantly deprived or inhibited by my shopping moratorium. Isn't that amazing?

I don't want my last statement to imply that this challenge hasn't really affected me, because it has. I did a lot of shopping around Christmas-time, and wasn't tempted by anything in the stores. I think that I look at clothing so much differently now. I no longer lust after $200+ Milly shells...

because I could find great fabric online or in NYC and make my own with McCall's 5661 for a fraction of the cost.

Or the lovely wool or cotton $100 JCrew pencil skirts that are the staple of my work wardrobe could be made with McCall's 3830.  And I can make them in the color or fabric that I want.

Really - even though I just began sewing less than a year ago, I question whether I will ever buy another skirt or dress again.  Even if a dress is a style I would not be able to make, or is in a fabulous material, do I really need that dress? Couldn't I make one that I'd love just as much?

I think the basics of sewing can be learned relatively quickly. Having sewn pillows and curtains, I was slightly ahead of a complete novice for I knew how to thread a machine and sew a straight seam. However, I had no knowledge of sewing construction, i.e. darts, insering a zipper, understitching. Looking at the first dresses I made, I can already see significant improvement in the past 9 months. My first pieces felt homemade; my more recent ones don't.

The negatives of sewing? You know them!: Sewing takes a lot of time - I work full-time, plus have an hour commute both ways, volunteer for 2 groups, am in a book club, go to the gym 3-4 times a week, cook dinner 5-6 nights a week… that doesn't leave a whole lot of time for sewing. I've wanted to create a better wardrobe, but can only make 2-3 pieces a month, if that. So at this point most of what I currently wear are older clothes, not items that I have sewn.

Additionally, sewing is so frustrating at times. It is awful to spend days, or weeks, on a project that turns out meh. For example, I made a jacket in the fall that I thought I'd love, but have never worn. I gave it away.

However, it is a great feeling to press that last seam, fluff out your new garment, wear it and receive compliments, and think "I made this!".  Or get an insatiable urge for a green wool dress, and then be able to make one (hopefully, this month!).

Jason Wu RST 2010, style.com

I will be honest with you: I fell off the wagon once, while in France in November.  While I was not only in a different zip code, but a different country, it still counts: I bought an overcoat at A.P.C. Surplus in Montmarte.  I didn't even need it, I just really wanted it.  I was in France, my little sister was getting a coat, it was a pretty good price for A.P.C., and I just caved in...  There is no excuse.

Before I started this challenge, I knew I wanted a grey merino turtleneck.  It's just a piece, like my camel merino turtleneck, that would go with so much and that I'd wear over and over. 

When returning a shirt for my Mom at JCrew after Christmas, I saw one in the sale section, in my size, for $30.  But because I am not buying new clothes, I walked away from it.  I'm hoping that makes up slightly for my French lapse.

I will admit that recently I've been hankering for new spring-color cardigans. 

This would go over everything I own and would make my life complete! (To be said in a dramatic, whiny tone.)

Two winters ago I snagged 3 long merino v-neck cardigans from Banana Republic for $12.99 each (?!?!), and I wear at least 2 of them a week.  However, they are in dark colors and will not be appropriate to layer over lighter-colored duds.  I don't know what I'm going to wear over skirts and dresses for the next few months, before I can break out my linen summer jackets.  (I'm ignoring that I apparently made it through last spring allright.)

I guess the project is getting a bit tough, but don't worry, I will not given in to temptation again!

Boucle Suit Update

I recently had the courage to take another look at the DKNY boucle suit.  I had put so much energy into the suit that I needed to take a break and come back to it with a fresh outlook.  I really appreciated your thoughtful and honest feedback about it!  While I made this to wear as a skirt suit... I'm with you that the pieces look much better as separates.  Worn together, they wash me out.  And it looks a bit Ladies-Who-Lunch?

Your suggestions to bring this to a professional tailor - such a good idea! - made me realize that I hadn't pressed it enough.  While my iron isn't the best, I cranked the steam to the highest mark and pressed the h*!l out of it.  It definitely took away some of the sponginess.

I have a very friendly Greek tailor that I'm going to bring this to to do a real pressing job, once I figure out what to do with the collar...

The collar does not have turn of the cloth, and it grates me each time I look at this.  I need to do something about it: either rip off the collar and trim down the under collar, or take the collar off and make this a Chanel-style, collarless jacket.  I don't know if I could do these two options because I trimmed the seam allowances on the collar stand.

I was browsing the Metropolitan Museum's Costume Institute site, seeking inspiration for how I could liven the jacket up, and came across this skirt suit from Fall/Winter 1962-1963:

This gave me the idea to bind the edges, perhaps in a light yellow to bring out the yellow flecks, or an oyster grey satin, leftover from the Rachel Comey blouse I made, as the color of the jacket is a grey-blue.  I may add a second set of pockets for a bit more interest:

I completed the skirt, which needed a bit of re-working.  I wanted to take it in, for it felt too big after wearing it to work.  However, the waist had felt rather bulky with the boucle facing, so in addition to bringing in the sides, I ripped out the facing and lined it all the way to the top.  I understitched, and the facing stays down well.

This skirt  - McCall's 3830 - is so easy.  If you want an instant gratification project, this is one to try!