DKNY Suit Jacket: Almost There!

I decided to disregard the pattern instruction's raw edges and finish the jacket the traditional way.

Your comments made me question whether the raw edges - and the style - would hold up.  This is a traditional piece that I want to wear for years, and the wool was already starting to fray in some spots just from being cut; I began to doubt that the edges would last for even a few wears.

I have a lot of hand stitching to do - adding the pockets, fasteners, and attaching the lining - but will hopefully finish later this week!

DKNY Vogue 1067 is one weird pattern...

Thanks for your help in deciding what suit jacket to make - though it was about an equal split between Vogue 1067 and Vogue 7975!  I like them both, too.  I decided to use the multi-colored tweed fabric to make the DKNY jacket, because I began to envision the classic Chanel-style jacket in a still-yet-to-be-found cream boucle. 

Tthe lining of the DKNY jacket is complete:

Fine so far.  Though the side panels were a pain to ease in: it took a lot of snipping and spreading of the seam allowances.  But I wouldn't settle for a wrinkly seam.  The sleeves were much easier to insert: this is the first time I used the gathering method to attach the sleeve, and it was so easy!

But it's gonna get crazy: the lining is attached to the fashion fabric in the oddest way.  The strips of fringe surrounding all the edges of the jacket are to be sandwiched between the wrong sides of the fashion fabric and lining, with the raw edges showing!  The layers are topstitched together.  Wha....?!   

Click to enlarge the instructions - I'm not crazy, right?!

I searched for the original version to determine if the edges are raw, but can't see enough of the detail:

DKNY RTW Fall 2007, Images style.com

I fear this will look terribly Becky Home-Ecy.  I don't know if I will admit that I made this, for fear people will say/think: "Yeah, I can see that."  But then again, I've been feelin the deconstructed look lately, so maybe the raw hems will seem... kinda cool?  Perhaps the point is to make the sophisticated style of the jacket less stuffy? 

Yikes!  I'm excited to see how it turns out, good or bad...!  Stay tuned....

Vera Wang Lavender Label Fabrics $1.95/yard

Fabric.com has marked most of the Vera Wang Lavender Label fabrics to $1.95 a yard.  The fabrics appear to be from the Fall 2008 collection. 

I purchased 3 yards of this purple red-flecked wool:

To make a similiar skirt suit:

I had originally pegged this teal boucle:

for a skirt suit, but I love the coat Vera Wang made of the material:

I also grabbed a yard of this chartreuse woven:

for a skirt:

The "techno tafettas", which the above jacket and top are made of, are on sale, but there aren't many colors.  I wish the blue above was available, as I adore the yellow and blue combination! 

There are other fabrics from the same collection (which I did not get), such as the jacquard for this dress, and a navy circle jacquard as well:

Ultimately, I picked up enough to make 4 skirts, 3 suit skirts, 3 shirts, and 3 dresses (plus 2 lining fabrics) for *$35.42* (with a 30% off a $50 order coupon code).  I almost feel guilty about how cheap the order was.  Most of these fabrics will go into storage for next fall, though I did get some spring/summer appropriate cuts. 

I just love off-season shopping: insane prices and, if you pack the items away and forget about them, a pleasant surprise later on.  I purchased a large order of Ralph Lauren chino from fabrics.com last year when they were marked down to $1.95/yard, and now have a large stash to pick from for spring.  Since I am not buying clothing, I'm glad that I can still get an off-season bargain thrill from fabric shopping! 

If you have Monday off as I do, happy long sewing weekend (or shopping?)!

Party Frock: Cynthia Rowley Simplicity 2472

I made this dress for my husband's aunt's Twelfth Night party this past weekend. 

It is Simplicity 2472, view B (the middle-length dress).  It appears to be a simple tunic (the muslin looked like a hospital gown!), but the neckline band, large band at the bottom, and gathered sleeves give it interest.  This is a shape I don't often wear, but I love it!  I think it's my favorite sewn item yet.

I *heart* the fabric - it's a navy and cream (snakeskin print?) satin from WinMil in Boston.  The fabric is very thick.  It was $5.98/yard, and the pattern takes 2 yards. Overall, this cost well under $20 to make.

Pear-shape girls beware: this pattern is designed for thin, straight up and down figures.  I usually sew a size 12 in dresses, but I made this in a 10 because I thought the fit would be blousy.  However, I had to go out an inch at the hip, so this is probably more like a 14 at the bottom. Seriously, save yourself the heartache and add some width to the pattern's bottom before you even make a muslin. I ultimately had to make 2.

I stitched-in-the-ditch to fasten the neck facing, something I am mysteriously competent at (the pattern says to topstitch).  I couldn't get the arm facings to pull in far enough to catch the edge to stitch-in-the-ditch, so I used 2 rows of topstitching to secure the band.  There is top stitching above the bottom band as well.

I think there is an error in the pattern instructions for attaching the bottom band; I could not figure out what it says to do.  So, I treated the bottom band like the neck or arm facing, and just folded the band into the inside.  Ultimately, it looks like the pattern picture.

I really love this.  I think the fabric has a lot to do with it, but I also like the modern, fun shape.  I'm pleased with my construction, too.  I can wear it now with navy opaque tights and strappy silver sandles, topped with a cream tuxedo jacket, and in the spring/summer with neutral heels (with accessories, of course, which are seriously lacking in these photos).

Deconstructed clothing: has it gone too far here?

A recent Threads article commented that "we're living in an era of deconstructed clothes.  Raw edges have become fashion elements."  I am all for it!  I love the modern touch that exposed seams or obvious zippers can bring to a garment, especially a more traditional one.

For example, the obvious seams on this skirt in Twinkle Sews give it a rough edge that keeps the long skirt out of old-fashioned territory.

You either love or hate an exposed zipper. Personally, I like the bit of cool it brings to an outfit, especially on a conservative piece like a pencil skirt or shift dress:

Stella McCartney

Ann Taylor

I covet Gertie's exposed-zipper shift dress here.

But I think deconstructed detailing has its limits, and my limit is ripped clothing.  I've always hated the idea of "distressed" jeans with manufactured holes.  I still remember a neighbor's teenage granddaughter's shredded acid-washed pair, circa 1987, that made me think, even as a youngster, "WTF?".  But well-loved jeans are supposed to develop holes at stress points, so if you want to force that look, fine I suppose.  But I just can't stomach rips as a design feature on what would otherwise be very beautiful clothing.

Images from style.com

I think Raf Simons for Jil Sander Spring 2010 RTW went too far here. It's just too subversive, for the sake of being subversive.  It's too much for me.

Or am I being fuddy duddy?  What do you think of rips as trim?

DIY Michael Kors Sleeveless Coat & a New Skirt

I'm calling this a DIY project because I did not sew this coat, which is my homemade version of this Michael Kors number:

(Image from Style.com)

At first I thought this was an impractical piece akin to winter shorts or sleeveless turtlenecks.  However, I loved it styled in October's Vogue - like a chic sort of puffer vest.

This Calvin Klein coat hung unworn in my closet for a few years. (I thought I'd wear a car coat when I bought it, but always bypassed it for my longer, warmer wool coats.)

I used a seam-ripper to take off the sleeves, tucked under the raw edges of the lining and wool fabric, and then hand-stitched them together.

Hopefully I can get some wear out of it when the temp goes above 30 degrees!

I came across this fashion blogger's how-to for the Michael Kors coat. I like how she left the little cap sleeves on. She used a thrift store coat - such a great idea, because the coat does not need to be perfectly fitted, and why spend a ton of time constructing a labor-intensive coat that will, admittedly, be worn more as a novelty than an everyday item? (BTW, this blogger has some hot sewing projects. Love the Victorian ruffle collar!)

The skirt is Simplicity 2758, and was inspired by this tweed skirt.

I removed the waistband of the skirt, and used it as facing, securing the facing with contrasting green hem tape. (This is actually 1980 hem tape that I picked up at Brimfield for $1 - still adhesive 20 years later. Go Wrights!) I secured the hem with the tape as well. Ummmm, is this not the best stuff ever? I don't know if it is considered a sloppy shortcut, but I see myself abusing hem tape in the future. What a time saver.

I won't make the skirt again. While the instructions were straightforward, it turned out to be way A-line. Almost poodle skirt-ish…

EDIT: Husband commented that my legs appear really thin in this skirt.  Perhaps I will make another...