I let out the princess seam at the full bust and stitched it back up with a 1/8 allowance, and the pulling went away...
I'm just barely a C student, and so far, I haven't felt that my patterns needed a FBA, thankfully because... I'm terrified of pattern adjusting: I feel that it's way over my head and skill level. However, I knew plunging ahead with the dress was not the right thing to do, so I got out my copy of Fit For Real People, and proceeded with actually completing a FBA. When I put the bodice back together, the pulling was gone.
To any new sewers out there, like me, who are super-intimidated at trying a pattern adjustment, get out your instruction book, and try it! You can probably do it! (But perhaps you should stop reading now, because a bump in the road was hit...)
I ran into a serious problem when attaching the bodice to the waist inset/skirt:
There is a ridonculous amount of ease:
I've checked that the seams and notches line up, and let's assume there's not a pattern drafting error. Does a FBA add waistline width? Argh, what is going on here?
I'm off to drown my apparel construction sorrows in Indian takeout and The September Issue...
21 comments:
I believe the FFRP FBA does add width to the waist. The band of extra fabric that you add to cover the bust adequately, goes all the way down to the waist.
I've done a few FBAs but I do find them challenging to integrate into more complex patterns i.e. dresses.
Likewise, I'm pretty sure that a FBA adjustment adds width -- it might need to be removed with a larger dart or seam allowance below the bustline? However, I'm no expert, having the opposite problem myself! I do know that a SBA *removes* width, so it would make sense that a FBA would add width.
Best of luck!
I'm a super new sewer and this post was inspiring. Sometimes you have to attack and step away for a minute or a day then come back to it.
That was the same problem I had when I was sewing up my Metropolitan dress from a McCalls pattern. I have been since advised to add waist darts next time.
I admire you for tackling pattern adjustments. I don't think they are easy. I am barely a B, so I don't have to learn fba's. I am always trying to sort out the lower half of dresses which need a lot of width added though!
Oh dear, you're certainly brave attempting pattern adjustment. The mere idea of that sends me into a cold sweat. I hope it all works out well for you.
The FBA absolutely adds width at the waistline, but only in front. As I only need the width at the bust, when I do an FBA, I either deepen the fisheye/underbust vertical dart to remove the excess, or take the width out of the side seams. If you remove it at the side seams, then you will have to true the front and back side seams to make sure that they are the same length. I find it easier and get a better fit if I can take it from the darts. If you need the width at the waist, then you will need to add it to the skirt front somewhere either by letting out darts or adding to the side seam.
You still did a great job on your first FBA! Congrats!!
I have had to learn how to adjust all patterns for fit - nothing fits me above the waist without a lot of alterations to the pattern. At first I found it really difficult to get right but now it's getting a bit easier! Looks like you're on the right track.
I don't have FFRP, so I can't comment on their method. But certain FBAs do, indeed, add to the waist. When I do an FBA, I make sure to true up the lines so the waistline goes back to the original. Otherwise the garment swims on me.
Congrats on your first FBA! They really aren't that hard. Do what KID, MD said and you'll be perfect.
Ooh, how depressing to have to run into a snag like this. I've never had to do a fba (no need) but whenever I've done a sba I always need to remove width from the torso region too so stands to reason the opposite would hold...
What KID suggested sounded exactly right.
Good luck, and with that gorgeous fabric your dress is going to be lovely!
Thankyou for your comment on my dress!
Congrats on your 1st FBA and thanks for posting on the excess ease and have learned something new about FBA.
Good for you for jumping right into pattern adjusting! I have no need for FBA's, only FHAs (full hip adjustments!)which are so much easier. Good luck, it looks like the answers are in the comments here! Very pretty fabric too :)
I've only tried this adjustment once so I'm not sure how to fix it... but I assume that it adds width... I think I had an "aha" moment. No wonder my muslin was big in the waist area. Hehe... thanks!
Yes, what Katie (KidMD) said is right. Keep at it. You are doing great!
I'm a beginning sewer too and likewise terrified of making changes to patterns. Thank God I'm a solid B cup!
Congrats on the FBA! I am a chubby sewer and I have never made anything WITHOUT pattern adjustments. Well, anything that actually fits me LOL. You can fix this, If you need to you can even let out the side seams of the bottom part a little so the ease matches up.
I'm just now reading about your FBA dilemma. Sometimes they do add width. There have been occasions when I do a FBA on princess like seams, I increase the seam allowance (gradually) below the fullest part of the bust. This help bring the waistline back to the original width. I hope this helps and is not confusing.
C
Working out where you need adjustments is so rewarding, all of a sudden clothes look so much better.
I'm no help with this one. :( If anything, I'd need a SBA, which is the exact opposite problem. Heh.
I was terrified of doing an FBA too. Fit for Real People is an excellent resource and while I'm still not an expert, I don't panic at the thought of doing one. I spent some time doing muslins using inexpensive fabric, just to get the hang of the concept first and that taught me a lot. Keep at it, you'll be so much happier with your garments in the long run!
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