Tuesday, July 6, 2010

Full Skirt Obsessing

I thought the Butterick 5285 gathered skirt was a total lost cause, but thanks entirely to your kind words and encouragements, I ripped the whole thing apart and took more width off the sides (twice), and put it back together (twice). 

I think it turned out fine.  Unquestionably, I made the wrong fabric choice.  It still has crazy poufiness in the back.  But you all seemed to like the craziness, so I'm going to wear it; if I'm laughed at, it's your fault!  I need to finish the closure and hand-hem it - I promise pics by the end of the week.

* * *

Despite Butterick 5285's lackluster end result, I'm obsessing over full skirts for fall.  I'm excited at the thought of sewing up wide, blousy skirts to replace my pencil skirts, which seem yawn to me right now.  I can't stop thinking of Tasia and Ali's versions, using McCall's 5803, so I ordered the OOP Hilary Duff pattern from Ebay.

So I'll have a gathered or pleated full skirt pattern, but I want more!

You noted that the lovely Louis Vuitton below is a circle skirt (not gathered, doh!):

Louis Vuitton Fall 2010 RTW, style.com

But what about this Oscar de la Renta number?  I think it's a bias skirt?:

Oscar de la Renta Fall 2009 RTW, style.com

As is this Louis Vuitton dress?  (Seriously, is this not the perfect outfit: the dress, the cardi, the colors, the shoes?  Heaven):

Louis Vuitton Fall 2010 RTW, style.com

Is it a dress with a bias cut skirt?

My goal  is to make versions of these skirts for fall.  I may try my hand at making my own circle skirt pattern, though I do adore this vintage pattern.  Do you have a bias cut skirt pattern recommendation?  Any other full skirt types I haven't thought of?


Gail said...

Check out the tutorial on making a full skirt at http://imadethis-asewingblog.blogspot.com/
posted a few days ago.

Tasia said...

You're going to love Mccalls 5803 - I hope! If you're worried about poofiness, you could always edgestitch or topstitch down the pleats a bit, maybe 2" from the waistband to flatten it down a bit.
The two Louis Vuitton dresses you like look like semi-bias skirts with a centre front seam. I've made a few dresses that have this kind of skirt construction - they put the grainline along the sideseam, so the front is kind of bias but not a complete 45-degree angle.

This dress has that kind of skirt (look at how the dots change direction along the front seam):
And so does my favourite dress pattern of the moment:
This kind of skirt is nice as there's lots of room to move and swishes around your legs nicely, but doesn't add a lot of bulk at the hips... anyways, hope that helps!

Tasia said...

Oh gosh.. sorry for the novel! You said full skirts and I got excited :)

Anonymous said...

I think you're reading your inspiration photos wrongly. If you look closely, these not gathered skirts, they're what my mother called "circle" skirts. There are no gathers at all at the upper seam. The pieces are cut pretty much like pie pieces, and by the time they reach the upper hips and waist are as snug as a pencil skirt. You shouldn't kick yourself for not getting the result you wanted, but look very closely at the lines of a piece before emulating the look. Best of luck, Inkstain (of Patternreview.com)

lsaspacey said...

Here are two favorites of mine for a bias skirt, try Simplicity 9765 and for a long full skirt, try Style 2323, both of course are OOP, but I've seen them online. I also have a few in my Etsy shop, just let me know if you want one and I'll make you a deal.

nomm is ... said...

I'm with anonymous. If your inspiration are circle or half circle skirts you will not be happy with a pattern that is gathered or pleated.

I made a back of the envelope sketch of how I would reproduce the Oscar de la Renta skirt. The foldlines would be the sides of the skirt, the cutting lines would be the centre front and back seams. Each of the pattern pieces is a quarter circle.
The fun about circle skirts is that you can easily construct them. I made another back of the envelope sketch. Take your waist measurement and divide it by π (3,141) and half that number. This gives you r1. Now add the desired length of the skirt and you have r2. You can use the little hole in your measuring tape to actually draw the circle.

Ok, perhaps this bit is not that much fun after all. The real pleasure about these skirts is the way they move when you walk. The pain in the neck is hemming them. Unless you have really pliable wool, I'd recommend facing the hem with bias tape.

Ali said...

Well, it looks like you'll have your pick of skirts this summer! I look forward to see you delve into circle skirt adventures!

That said, that Tasia is such a temptress isn't she? ;) M5803 will be totally worth it for a pleated, fun skirt. Looking forward to your version!

Lauriana said...

I'm going to agree with, among others, anonymous and nomm: judging by the pictures you post, it's circle and half circle skirts you love. So go with those, you'll never get the same look out of a gathered skirt. I've been on a bit of a full skirt(ed dress) craze myself lately and I tend to love the (more than) full circle most (they're on my blog http://petitmainsauvage@blogspot.com).
I'm with Tasia on the issue of the bias skirt (the La Renta, I'd bet the Vuitton is another circle) you show: a pure bias skirt is usually quite sleek and narrow, I think this is a half circle skirts with the grainline at the side seams.
Good luck making great skirts!