Monday, March 1, 2010

Boucle Suit Update

I recently had the courage to take another look at the DKNY boucle suit.  I had put so much energy into the suit that I needed to take a break and come back to it with a fresh outlook.  I really appreciated your thoughtful and honest feedback about it!  While I made this to wear as a skirt suit... I'm with you that the pieces look much better as separates.  Worn together, they wash me out.  And it looks a bit Ladies-Who-Lunch?

Your suggestions to bring this to a professional tailor - such a good idea! - made me realize that I hadn't pressed it enough.  While my iron isn't the best, I cranked the steam to the highest mark and pressed the h*!l out of it.  It definitely took away some of the sponginess.


I have a very friendly Greek tailor that I'm going to bring this to to do a real pressing job, once I figure out what to do with the collar...

The collar does not have turn of the cloth, and it grates me each time I look at this.  I need to do something about it: either rip off the collar and trim down the under collar, or take the collar off and make this a Chanel-style, collarless jacket.  I don't know if I could do these two options because I trimmed the seam allowances on the collar stand.


I was browsing the Metropolitan Museum's Costume Institute site, seeking inspiration for how I could liven the jacket up, and came across this skirt suit from Fall/Winter 1962-1963:



This gave me the idea to bind the edges, perhaps in a light yellow to bring out the yellow flecks, or an oyster grey satin, leftover from the Rachel Comey blouse I made, as the color of the jacket is a grey-blue.  I may add a second set of pockets for a bit more interest:



I completed the skirt, which needed a bit of re-working.  I wanted to take it in, for it felt too big after wearing it to work.  However, the waist had felt rather bulky with the boucle facing, so in addition to bringing in the sides, I ripped out the facing and lined it all the way to the top.  I understitched, and the facing stays down well.



This skirt  - McCall's 3830 - is so easy.  If you want an instant gratification project, this is one to try!

16 comments:

Kathi said...

I am anxious to see what happens if you add the yellow! It is amazing what a good pressing will do - I don't have a great iron either. If I had a true sewing room, I would consider investing in one.

Gail said...

I'm all for bound edges, picking up the red thread or blue if you are not a red girl. I recently picked up 5 mtrs of black boucle with red, white and blue flecks so am following with interest.

jacqui m. said...

I was thinking about your jacket today. I was wondering what you had decided to do. I am guessing that you are going to add the binding around the pockets too (make them pop out). That would be great. And I have learn that sometimes you need to put it down and come back with fresh eyes.

NGLaLALa said...

Ooo... I think that the binding will help... what a great idea!

Karin said...

The binding idea is brilliant! I am interested to see which colour you will pick. Both sound nice and I can't decide between them in my own imagination. Yellow would be fun and summery, grey a safer more subdued choice... Can't wait to see what you do.

Caitlin said...

I just found your blog and am excited since I'm trying to sew all of my clothes this year too! I'm also a beginning sewer and have done a few dresses and skirts for myself, and some dresses for my daughter. I'm a new mom though and don't get to spend nearly as much time sewing as I would like!

Eugenia said...

I think binding the edges is a great idea - it will give the jacket an extra something! That skirt pattern is really great.

Clio said...

Sounds like taking a break from the project was a good idea. I'm definitely going to have to pick up the skirt pattern.

Sheila said...

I like the idea of binding the edges with one of the color choices. You did a great job on the skirt lining.

gwensews said...

Binding is a good solution. Sew on!

Andrea said...

The skirt looks great. You did a beautiful job with the lining. I picked up that pattern this past weekend during the McCalls sale at JoAnns. I love the binding idea and can't wait to see the outcome.

Hunter said...

Wow, what a tough task to undertake; making your clothes for a year. Good job so far! Very inspired.

Sheri said...

I have a Rowenta iron - these are great -but I do not iron worth a damn! I iron as I go during the sewing process, and when I'm finished, I always send my garments out to the tailors to be pressed. This makes a huge difference in the appearance of my garments. I sew all of my husband's dress pants and send these out as well to have the crease professionally pressed in.

lsaspacey said...

Yes, a professional pressing will be great. About the binding, I suggest a using a subtle color not red or the bright blue because that might limit how times you will wear it.

Marie-Christine said...

Bound edges would add a welcome touch of color. But they'd really improve your suit because they'd force you to topstitch the edges. It's true you could press the hell out of it, but you'd also lose the nice spongyness, boucle-dom of the fabric. Topstitching would give you nice crisp edges without forcing you to give up the best character of your fabric. You can do it by machine, or you could do it by hand fairly quickly, giving it a really classy 40s touch. It would also give you the opportunity to build a bit of roll in that collar, you'd be amazed how much it'd improve. At least baste the collar in place by hand, if you decide to topstitch by machine, so you're sure the roll is perfect before you stitch.

amber said...

I think the binding idea sounds great. I'm also so glad you're loving that McCall's straight skirt pattern - I have fabric for at least two more wintery versions and can't wait to get some springy cottons for summery skirts. :)