Vogue 8511

A few years ago at Christmastime, I got the idea that I wanted a long-sleeved dress for the office holiday party.  I was never able to find it.  The stores had a smattering of long-sleeve jersey dresses, but no long-sleeved wool or cotton dresses.  I'm so glad that I can make my own now.

Back's a bit wrinkly from sitting at my desk all day...

This is the long-sleeved version of Vogue 8511.  I luhv the skirt's double pleats, with a single inverted pleat in the middle.  I think it's a very distinct detail.

The fabric is a cotton/wool blend from WinMil Fabrics in Boston.

I'm not super thrilled with the sleeves.  They are wider than the envelope picture indicates.  The shoulders are slightly dropped as well, so are less fitted than I'd have prefered.  However, the pattern would likely not be Very Easy Vogue if the top were more tailored.

Only the bodice of this dress is lined; I put a full lining in this dress for winter-wear.  I did a straight lining, using the skirt back as a guide.  The bodice is shaped by princess seams, which were so easy to sew.  Even the sleeves went in very easily.  I inserted an invisible zipper, which for some reason did not want to go in easily.  All of these steps made the dress relatively time-consuming.  Thankfully, I did figure out how to insert the lining by machine, which saved a ton of time!

The dress could veer into prim territory - so when I wore it to work today, I paired it with sexy pumps, a loose ponytail, and what I think are my slightly subversive vintage specs from Brimfield.  I was going for a Michael Kors look:

(I am endlessly inspired by his Fall 2008 RTW show.)

Overall, I really like this dress.  A lady at the elevator said: "That's a great dress you're wearing - it's.... different."  In a good way, I think!

* * *

Off to Paris Saturday night, and I need to pack.  I'm remembering the advice to pack light.  Have a great Thanksgiving week!

Inserting a Dress Lining by Machine

I am very proud of myself for figuring out how to attach a dress lining by machine.  I can now avoid slip stitching linings to the zipper as most patterns indicate.

Ok, I can't take the credit for myself, because I adapted Two On Two Off's tutorial on attaching a skirt facing by machine.  And many sewers probably already do this.

After attaching the invisible zipper, I turned the dress inside out so that the dress and linings' right sides were together.  The zipper is on the inside, underneath the lining. 

Using a regular zipper foot, I stitched down the center back seam to the end of the zipper.  You can't sew too close to the zipper underneath or it will be difficult to zip it up when turned right side out. 

Here is the inside with the dress turned right side out:

Yay, no hand-stitching!

Growing A Stash

Saturday's Pattern Review meet-up in NYC was such a great time.  About 20 sewers (including bloggers Sheila, Andrea, Tricia, and Nancy) met up to visit Metro Textiles, Mood, Greenberg & Hammer, Rosen & Chadick, Paron's, and Pacific Trim.  It was a long, but extremely fun and inspiring day.

I had never been to Metro, so I had to add a few fabrics from there to my "collection".  A sewer had commented that she doesn't know how people leave there without buying something.  I completely agree.  The selection is great, and the prices unreal for the quality - even less than Paron's.  At Metro I purchased a thick black and white striped-wool ($12/yard) and - my favorite - an amazing graphic Japanese cotton, unlike anything I own, which is so soft it feels like silk (at an unbelievable $5/yard).  Kashi had a few variations of this print.  It'll go into the pile for a spring/summer dress.

At Paron's (where I always find something), I picked up another gold fabric for another gold shell (since I cannot stop wearing the first one), and a lightweight wool with a bit of stretch for planned skinny trousers. 

PRer Annette commented that I am growing quite a stash for a budding sewist.  I'm sure it does not rival Carolyn's famed closet, but I'm afraid it is growing out of control.  I have a visible pile of imminent projects (those I'd like to complete in the next month or so):

Plus a bag and storage bin under the bed stuffed full.  I'm a rabid anti-hoarder, so this stash is beginning to bother me.  I have enough to keep me entertained for the next few months - probably even through the spring.  So I'm placing a moratorium on new fabric purchases for the next few months.  (How unlikely is this to succeed?  Do any sewers not have a stash??  I'd like to be one of those sewers!) 

* * *

Thank you for the honest feedback on the poufy skirt and your suggestions to re-do the back, which I actually hadn't thought of.  I'm going to take it apart, and play around with whether the back would look best straight or with fewer gathers.  I'll keep you posted!

I took a step back from the skirt to work on Vogue 8511.  The pattern has been a breeze to sew (minimal ease in the sleeves, very easy princess seamed-bodice), but my major dislike is that only the bodice (and not the sleeves or skirt) is lined.

I lined the sleeves, and would like to line the skirt as well.  The front of the skirt is heavily pleated.  What would work best: to draft a straight skirt lining (using the straight back pattern pieces as a guide), or pleat the lining like the skirt?  I'm leaning towards a straight lining so that the pleats are not affected by a pleated lining underneath. 

Don't know if I'm loving this one...

I completed a second version of Simplicity Cynthia Rowley 2512.  I added seam allowances to the yoke to avoid the self-binding, and removed the tie waist:

I don't think I love it.  It's actually kind of cute from the front, but the pouf just does not work in the back:

I am sure the problem is that I used a wool - a mid-weight wool, but a wool nonetheless.  It is too bulky for this skirt, and the gathers don't hang properly.  I had fair warning: while the the pattern calls for some heavier-weight fabrics as options, wool was not one, so I am not blaming the pattern at all.  I still might make this again in the summer - I do think it would be fabulous in a tissue-weight cotton.  I really like the different shape.  It is just not working here.

Eh, I was bummed, because I was going to wear this on my upcoming trip.  But you win some, you lose some, and I have high hopes for Vogue 8511 (*knocking on wood*).  At least the weekend is almost here.  Enjoy!

Sewing a Travel Wardrobe

My mother and little sister and I are travelling to Paris and England Thanksgiving week, and I am planning to sew a few new items to wear on the trip.

The family hasn't been on vacation together since an ill-fated trip to Wildwood, New Jersey in the late 1990's. My Mom saw a Travel Channel program about 1950's "retro" hotels in Wildwood, and being a vintage-enthusiast, she thought that it would be a fabulous place for a summer getaway. Unfortunately, upon arrival, we discovered that our hotel had not been updated since the 1950's... So an exciting, girly vacation is definitely owing.

Comfortable footwear is my number one travel-wear concern, and I'm planning what clothes I’ll bring around them. In addition to an old pair of well-worn, super-comfy Puma sneaks, I’m bringing a pair of black pointy-toe flats, and black low-heeled, knee –high boots… that I’m still trying to find.

I’m making another version of Simplicity 2512 in a black wool.

It should be very versatile; I’m planning to wear it layered with cardigans and jackets.

I’d like to bring a dress, as well. I worked on a muslin of Vogue 8530 all of last weekend, but it ended up being a wadder: it was a bit too shapeless (though it might be a cute, breezy summer dress).

Instead, I’m going to make Vogue 8511 in a black and white flecked wool blend. I’ve been drooling over this pattern for months – I love the idea of a dress with long sleeves.

It’d be great if I could sew another skirt – envisioning a shortened version of Simplicity 2758 in a lightweight grey wool - but I don’t know if I’ll have enough time, as I need to make a pair of long gloves as well….

On top of all of this, I'm still working on an itinerary! We're taking the Eurostar to the UK mid-week for 2 days to visit our relatives in East Sussex.  Other than that, I know we'll do Versailles, the Louvre, a night-time boat tour, obviously the Eiffel Tower and Notre Dame... but I still need to determine what neighborhoods to roam around, where to shop, and most importantly, what to eat!  I know less than  a week is not enough time to see Paris, but I hope we'll be able to get a thorough overview of the city.    If you have any Paris tips, let me know.

* * *

A few ladies have posted about Pattern Review Day in New York this Saturday.  I'm going to attend, and would love to meet others there.  Drop me a line if you're going, too.